“I’ve got barnacles,” announced the American woman on the next door table. I looked over, mid-ice cream, to realise that instead of an unusual skin complaint, she was referring to the bowl of mussels in front of her.
I’d clocked the same woman and her fellow passengers as they flooded ashore at Ullapool on Scotland’s West coast. Armed with guidebooks, they moved from seafood restaurant, to museum, to gift shop where they stocked up on tartan keyrings, Scottish tablet and heather-scented soap before climbing back aboard their cruise ship. Ullapool — tick, onto the next.
The West coast of Scotland had presented a dilemma even before I set out to walk the coast of Great Britain. As the seagull flies, the West Coast is just 300 miles long, but factor in its jagged ins and outs, peninsulas, sea lochs, bays and islands and the mileage quickly multiplies into the thousands.
I was desperate not to miss a single mountain, plus I didn’t want to have to admit that I hadn’t stuck religiously to the coastline throughout, but I’d given myself a year to complete the walk and was running out of time.
Reluctantly, I made my decision. Instead of hugging the coast, I’d take a shortcut and follow the Cape Wrath Trail from Fort William all the way to the most north westerly point on Scotland’s mainland.
And it was brilliant. The 200-mile Cape Wrath route offered up the most challenging, most spectacular walking of the trip. I slept in bothies, climbed Munroes, watched sea eagles and swam in icy rivers.
At the end of one especially brutal but beautiful day, I reached Kinlochewe – one of the villages that lie few and far between along the trail. I sat in the late afternoon sunshine at a tiny petrol station — a lone walker among leather-clad motorcyclists — and took off my wet boots and socks. I ordered tea and Bakewell tart from the kiosk and felt only joy.
The Cape Wrath Trail
The Joy of Missing Out (or JOMO) is a term coined as the antidote to its opposite number FOMO (Fear Of Missing Out). FOMO refers to the pressure to see, do, eat, and share the same experiences as our peers taking part in.
FOMO is what drives us to queue for our turn to take a selfie on Venice’s Rialto Bridge or watch the sun set in Santorini through an iPhone, or pay nine euros for a hot chocolate at the Alpine restaurant that’s all over Instagram this season. FOMO is why we make bucket lists of places to visit. It’s simply a series of tickbox destinations, without any consideration for the beauty of the journey itself.
JOMO on the other hand, refers to the feelings of release and relief we get from the absence of an event or experience. Away from home, it describes the sense of liberation that comes from skipping the so-called must-sees and big ticket items, and choosing a path less travelled.
Sometimes called slow or soft travel, it suggests travelling off-season, to lesser-known destinations and disconnecting from technology instead of checking in at every stop.
Claire spent the last year walking around the UK coast
This revelation made itself known time and again on my walk around Great Britain. I’d expect nothing from those places or paths I hadn’t heard of, and everything from the better-trodden trails, most talked about beauty spots and prettiest villages.
The reality was often the reverse. I would arrive in ordinary seaside towns that promised little more than the usual concrete grey promenade, dotted with bins, benches and elderly residents walking sausage dogs wearing coats. And I’d leave reluctantly, having discovered a new history and landscape (and usually a decent scone), vowing to go back.
I’d planned to rattle quickly through East Yorkshire on my way to Hull where I was meeting friends for a weekend of R&R. I knew next to nothing about that section of the Coast, only that it was unlikely to measure up to Northumberland’s white beaches and imposing hilltop castles, or Whitby’s famous fish and chips, or Holy Island – a ‘must’. Tick, tick, tick. I crossed them off my list and continued south.
Whitby beach
But Bridlington’s neat rows of beach huts, each painted a different shade of blue, and its miles of quiet, sandy beaches stopped me in my tracks.
Further south, I discovered Hornsea’s sweetly named Floral Hall, a Victorian-style pavilion built in 1913 as a dance hall, now a cafe, concert venue and comedy club and run entirely by volunteers. I found the friendly Food Shop and bought a potato, cheese and pickle pasty and a coconut tart to eat on the seafront. There was nothing I had to see, or climb, or photograph. I could simply sit and savour the moment, as well as my pasty.
Likewise, it was often the least-known trails that were most memorable. The West Highland Way runs for 96 miles from Glasgow to Fort William, skirting the shores of Loch Lomond and passing through Glencoe. It sits high on the list of ‘trails to do before you die’ for walkers from all over the world. This was one not to miss.
Loch Lomond shore, Scotland
But its label as Scotland’s best-loved long distance trail meant the campsites were full, the bothies strewn with litter and other, less savoury reminders of the previous night’s inhabitants, and the path itself was busy and just a bit uninspiring. Yet just a short hop across the country, I’d followed the lesser-known yet much more interesting Aberdeenshire coastal trail — 165 miles of dramatic cliffs, tiny coves and friendly fishing villages, most of which I had to myself.
Over and over, the pattern repeated itself. I couldn’t wait to get to the Norfolk coast path with its birdlife, film-set beaches and flat, easy walking through sandy forests. But the footpath was heavy with weekenders and tourists and the towns full of smart gastro pubs and holiday houses. I left feeling deflated, until the Suffolk coast path came to my rescue. The unexpectedly lovely trail winds along Suffolk’s Heritage Coast, through quiet woodlands and over boardwalks, away from the crowds.
It takes you through Thorpeness and Aldeburgh and Southwold — all summer holiday hotspots but somehow gentler and less assuming than their Norfolk neighbours. It was joyful.
And so it continued. Finding joy in the most unlikely places, at times when I least expected it.
So instead of worrying about ticking off the must-sees, perhaps real delight comes from tearing up the bucket list, leaving the beaten track, and appreciating the everyday.
Focussing on where we are right there and then, instead of looking ahead to what’s next, is what brings real joy.
Travel rucksacks: The best waterproof, lightweight and wheeled backpacks
Mountain Warehouse Carrion 80L Rucksack
Now 60% Off
An 80-litre lightweight rucksack that’s comfortable to carry, you’ll find a huge range of features in this rucksack and multiple pockets. We love the rain cover which folds out to cover the rucksack and protects the contents from getting wet – great if you’re heading somewhere rainy!
Decathlon Quechua Forclaz 50-Litre Trekking Backpack
Ideal for beginner trekkers because of its design which puts comfort first, this 50-litre travel backpack comes with durable foam straps, an adjustable back and even hand rests. It’s one of the most affordable rucksacks available, too.
Vango Sherpa 65-Litre Rucksack
With its self-adjusting back system, great value and useful features, including multiple entry points for effective organisation, this is great for adventurers who don’t want to spend too much. It also comes with reflective strips and a detachable rain cover.
Lowe Alpine Atlas 65:75 Hiking Backpack
Offering good value and a distinctive colour, this comfortable rucksack is durable and made for multi-day treks and travel around the world. The high-capacity pack has side pockets for extra storage and adjustable back-length with an easy-to-use hook and loop backsystem.
Mountain Warehouse Voyager Wheelie 50 + 20 Litre Rucksack – Black
Now 47% Off
Strong, versatile and secure, this black rucksack with wheels combines two bags in one design. There’s ample space for your luggage, with the large bag used as a rucksack while the detachable daypack is perfect for your days out.
Osprey Women’s Aura AG 65 Rucksack
Designed specifically for women, this stylish travel rucksack offers excellent ventilation without sacrificing performance and is great for hot and cold climates. Its harness with a load lifter bar offers strong load support and there are two zipped pockets on the front for easy access to your kit.
Mountain Warehouse Inca Extreme 80L Rucksack
Now 47% Off
If you’re looking for plenty of space, this 80-litre travel bag also comes with plenty of pockets, while offering comfort and style. We like the open mesh back that creates a large air space between you and the back of the rucksack for maximum ventilation.
Trespass Trek 66 Litre Rucksack
Now 55% Off
Available in seven colours including electric blue, this bright rucksack has essential features, from padded shoulder straps to an added rain cover. It has a large main compartment and five pockets in total for loads of space.
The North Face Terra 55-Litre Hiking Backpack
Ideal for hikers, this rucksack allows you to move faster with its light, slim and durable design. The 55-litre bag also features The North Face’s most comfortable back panel to date – it’s made from soft foam and breathable mesh.
Berghaus Women’s Trailhead Outdoor Rucksack
Packed full of Berghaus technology and features, this holiday rucksack also offers fantastic value. It’s simple, comfortable to wear and ideal for multi-day adventures.
Montane Trailblazer 30 Rucksack
Lightweight, stable and giving quick access to your kit, this rucksack was made for mountain walking trips. The harness can also be customised to ensure a body hugging fit without restricting your movement.
Osprey Rook 65 Rucksack
Now 15% Off
A highly innovative rucksack designed for comfort and a premium fit, it features a highly-adjustable ventilated backsystem, a large padded hip belt which helps when carrying heavier loads and an internal divider with a separated lower compartment you can unfasten easily when not in use.
Vaude Zerum 58+ LW Rucksack
Now 67% Off
Extremely lightweight and a good buy for trips where every gram counts, this is Vaude’s lightest large backpack, weighing just 1.39kg. It’s versatile, very strong and is an ideal bag for campers carrying tents and sleeping bags.
Mountain Hardwear BMG 105 OutDry Rucksack
For an investment travel backpack, this bag was designed for professional use so it’s built for carrying lighter loads as much as serious kit. It features a waterproof lining and comes with deep pockets for carrying everything, from climbing gear to ice axes.
Mountain Warehouse Tor 65L Rucksack
Now 59% Off
Packed with great features, this top rucksack for travelling has a split main compartment so you can separate your gear. It’s also perfect for women as it accommodates a smaller frame.
Decathlon Forclaz Travel 500 Men’s Trekking 50 Litre Lockable Backpack
Designed in collaboration with trekkers who expressed specific travel needs, this rucksack was created with a focus on safety. It has a wide, lockable zip which prevents pickpocketing and the hood doubles up as a saddlebag so you can take your most precious belongings wherever you go – genius!
