PARIS (AP) — Beige houndstooth jackets with oversized pockets, paired with discreet shirts and ties, opened Junya Watanabe’s latest men’s show at Paris Fashion Week on Friday.
It was a deceptively classic debut for the avant-garde Japanese designer, whose signature knack for subversive tailoring and patchwork soon disrupted conventions.
What looked like classic Americana—thick denim jeans, hats, and check shirts—quickly turned into something much less predictable. Exaggerated flared check trousers in red with dramatic turn-ups created a sense of whimsy, as did splashes of vivid colour. A pale yellow jacket and padded coat touched up in soft pastels softened the masculinity, turning the rugged aesthetic back into a gender-fluid one.
Splashes of bold colors, from vibrant reds to bright blue checks, became a distinct look. The palette danced to reimagined hunter jackets and distinctly masculine silhouettes, inspired by the designer’s famous use of patchwork. Here, it wasn’t just a technique but a conceptual statement — ideas and styles juxtaposed, creating contrasts.
Hunting jackets may evoke tradition, but here they feel fresh, even irreverent, with their clever layering of fabric and unexpected details. The collection demonstrated Watanabe’s knack for mixing avant-garde familiars, with bursts of feminine color turning the “brother” aesthetic on its head.
The recurring themes of denim and disruptive tailoring felt polished yet safe, lacking the urgency or political edge that defined his earlier work.
