PARIS (AP) — Giant futuristic robots greeted guests as they entered the pristine runway of Issey Miyake’s new menswear line IM MEN, unveiled Thursday at Paris Fashion Week.
As the robots moved with surgical precision, they revealed a black plaque that symbolized a new beginning for the fashion house. Its light color also felt like a silent tribute to designer and founder Issey Miyake, who died in 2022 at the age of 84.
This new collection, the last to be personally inspired by Miyake himself, was a profound moment for the house. It marked the transformation and reimagining of menswear through the lens of tradition and modern design.
Appearance: Warrior-like armor meets sleek proportions.
The collection opened with a beaded, multi-layered ensemble that immediately commanded attention. With its sleek head cap and useful tassels, the look was taking on a fashion-forward functionality. A padded crossover undergarment gave the outfit a distinctly armored feel, while an oversized long coat softened the silhouette, combining strength with elegance.
Throughout the show, long, flowing proportions added a tactile, huggable quality to loosely structured dresses. Standouts included jackets with detachable hoods, oversized coats with modular back panels, and padded utility wear.
Key technical innovations, such as a plant-based nylon lining that doubles as a vest, emphasize functionality without compromising style. Meanwhile, a flat drape series featured dresses that transitioned from perfect squares to flowing silhouettes.
What does the house say?
The house described the collection as “a piece of flying fabric”, a powerful association with limitless creativity. Metaphor.
Designed by the Miyake Design Studio team—Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura, and Nobutaka Kobayashi—the collection demonstrated the ability to honor the legacy of the house’s founder while forging a new path.
Moving beyond inheritance
While the house’s previous Homme Plissé men’s collections have long been admired for their innovative pleating techniques, they occasionally risk relying too heavily on a single aesthetic. This IM MEN collection, by contrast, expanded the house’s vocabulary. Transformative designs, modular garments, and bold fabrics went beyond pleats to explore new possibilities in menswear.
Past characteristics of Homme Plissé that have drawn criticism, such as a tendency towards overly abstract concepts or impractical designs, were notably absent here. Instead, the collection offered a focus on wearability, marking a significant evolution.
